Development of facial mask products containing gardenia fruit extract

Abstract

Gardenia fruit is widely used in medical treatment. Geniposide and crocins are the major active compounds in gardenia dried ripe fruit. This research focused on geniposide due to its anti-inflammatory activity. This study aims to study solvent effect on the extraction of gardenia dried fruit. The solvents were water, 50% ethanol and 70% ethanol. Each crude dried fruit portion was extracted twice consecutively using 2 solvents. Yellow orange color flake was obtained after the gardenia extract was lyophilized and geniposide content in the gardenia extract flake was evaluated. The highest extraction yield (13.06±0.75% by weight) and geniposide content (18.92±0.02% by weight) were obtained when water and 50% ethanol were consecutively used to extract gardenia dried fruit. Powder facial mask and peel-off gel facial mask were developed and the gardenia extract was added to the mask bases for after sun exposure use to reduce skin inflammation. The powder facial mask base containing 1% w/w of xanthan gum provided satisfied appearance and a suitable peel-off mask film was obtained when 0.5% w/w of tragacanth and glycerine were added in the peel-off gel mask base. Both facial masks containing gardenia extract were kept at 4, 30 and 40 oC for 3 months. The result showed that the powder facial mask and the peel-off gel facial mask were physically stable but geniposide remained unchanged only in the peel-off gel facial mask. It could be due to more acidic condition and stabilizing agent in the peel-off gel facial mask formula.